SOLOMANGO FEATURE STORY by Laurent Grandadam
The Art of Service

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Japan - Kyoto
The Art of Service


Traditional ryotei are the most exclusive, exotic and expensive eating places in Japan and some of the very best can be found in the city of Kyoto...


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Photo: Laurent Grandadam  


The experience of eating in a ryotei was once the preserve of businessmen, politicians and the very wealthy, and reservations could only be made by people recommended by a regular guest. With each table placed in its own room, customers would be served by traditional geisha using their charms to flatter and entertain the guests during the meal. A sanctuary of discretion in which business deals and political intrigues have been played out since the early 19th century. Prices were never mentioned or listed but rather the client would be quietly billed at the end of the month. Things are changing in the wake of the financial crisis with some ryotei offering more affordable menus with prices clearly marked. Customers can also make reservations even if they are not known by the restaurant. But despite these changes the experience of the ryotei remains one of exclusivity and luxury in a traditional setting. The food itself, of course, is the very best and this still comes at a price.

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